Zhengzhou,Henan,China
I went with this bed and went with a 750W Keenovo bed and glass on top on my 300x300 D-bot. The z-motor brackets need to modified to get this massive bed to fit. My D-bot has been printing like a dream even without the extra front z-brace. Also, 750W is wayyy to much power for a 300x300. The bed seriously heats up in ~30ish seconds to 60C.
Step 1: Materials. 3 More Images. Here's what you'll need, give or take a few items. a new bed plate- cast aluminum. high temperature silicone adhesive. 3X Teflon or phenolic blocks. 3X #10-32 flat head screws. 6X #6 sheet metal or plastic thread rolling screws. 3X stiff springs that fit over the #10 screws.
预计阅读时间:10 分钟Dec 01, 2016 I have been advocating cast tooling plate for a couple years because it is flat and thermally conductive. For anyone who doubts the flatness and suitability of cast aluminum for a 3D printer bed, here is a print I am running right now- 85 Nerdy Derby wheels all printing in one go on an unheated cast tooling plate bed with a layer of kapton tape and blue painter's tape,
Build Plate DesignDec 28, 2018Pancake stepper extruderJun 07, 2016Printhead for Powder bed printerMar 07, 2016Problems with PLA sticking to heated bedOct 22, 2012查看更多结果I have aluminium 3 mm thick and 110x110 mm big, and it bends when heated. Inevitably the center becomes higher than the sides. It is not a problem with PLA and nylon, but noticeable with ABS.. I use Kapton on top of it, and the print sticks easily with PLA. ABS requires hairspray on top of it, and nylon requires glue stick (but it fails anyway if the piece is big).